The Massacre

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Jessica-1,347 Cockroaches-0

Since arriving in Ayolas two weeks ago, I have been living in the house of a first grade teacher named Marite and her son Carlos. The three of us spent almost a week together sharing stories about life in the USA and in Paraguay when I first arrived. (Side note- Marite thinks Obama is gorgeous. Love her!) However, last week I said goodbye to Marite and Carlos as they headed off to her parents home for the holidays and most of January. She graciously is allowing me to stay in her house while she is away. So everyday I have had the comfort of making my own breakfast and dinner, and deciding more of less what I want to do for the day…drink terere with this neighbor, go to the grocery store, nap, read a book, etc. I do go over to neighbor’s house everyday for lunch to ensure that I am practicing my language and to hear what is happening in the community.

So everything was going along splendidly- spent my first Christmas in Paraguay, started meeting more of my neighbors, increased my Spanish vocabulary by reading Harry Potter in Spanish and have been playing a lot of guitar. However, there was one thing starting to ruin my comfy living situation. Every night I increasing became more and more frightened of the number of cockroaches in the house. They started coming up through the shower drain in the bathroom and floor cracks in the kitchen when it was still light outside. When Marite was still in the house I had seen a few of cockroaches in the bathroom, but not regularly. However, when she left I was unaware of exactly what to do to keep these disgusting bugs out of the house. The more I started seeing them crawling around the house, the more I knew I needed to do something. I asked a neighbor woman about the problem, she said that mopping the floor with bleach would help and using some form of a spray. After one more night of watching them crawl over the counters in the kitchen and the toothbrushes in the bathroom, I knew I needed to attack back.

The next day I woke up early and went to the grocery for some liquid bleach and roach spray. I was enticed by the Mata Rapido-Mata Cucarachas y Hormigas green bottle and decided to give it a try later that day. I waited until siesta time after lunch to begin my attack. I began in the kitchen spraying into the large floor crack where I had seen the roaches coming and going from. I then continued to spray around the kitchen appliances and in the corners. Fully satisfied with the work, and a little overwhelmed by the fumes, I decided to move onto the bathroom. In the bathroom I sprayed start down into their layer, the shower floor, where I had seen them escaping from the night before. After a few more sprays in the bathroom I felt satisfied with my work and decided to begin mopping the floors with bleach water. As I returned the kitchen with bucket in hand I saw at least 20 cockroaches swarming the kitchen floor trying to escape into the living room. I quickly grabbed my trusty plastic flip flop off my right foot and began smashing the fleeing roaches. One, two, three……fourteen, fifteen…thirty…As I realized that the dead roach count was adding up to around 40, I remembered the bathroom.

I ran to the bathroom with one shoe in hand arriving to the scene of over a hundred cockroaches climbing up out of the shower drain and escaping into the hallway and my bedroom! Quickly my total of smashed bugs around my feet numbered 50. And that is not included the previously killed roaches. They were crawling up the door frame trying to escape. One started crawling up my left leg and I smashed the roach with my sandal on my shorts, leaving a slimy stain. Another fell from the wall above and landed in my hair. After a momentary complete body freak out I swatted the bug onto the floor and triumphantly stamped down my left foot on its stiff shelled body. This was getting out of control. I slammed the bathroom door closed and ran back towards the kitchen. There I saw that they now were escaping into the living room. With no one around to ask for help, I ran to my phone sitting on the couch and called my volunteer friend Brenda.

The moment she picked up a screamed “AYUDAME!” (help me!). After I shared a quick recap about the swarming cockroaches in my house, she told me to go get my neighbor across the street for help. She is so smart. I threw down my phone and ran for the front gate. I tried to appear somewhat calmed as I walked across the street and clapped outside of their gate. (Paraguayans don’t have doorbells; you stand in front of their house clapping your hands to get permission to come in their yard.) The 8 year old daughter came to the window and I asked to speak to one of her parents. Luckily the dad, Nelson, came to the door a few seconds later and I struggled in broken Spanish to explain my problem. “Yo tengo mucha cucarachas en mi casa ahora. Yo necesito ayuda. Por favor.” He turned back into the house to grab his trusty baseball cap with an image of Jesus on it and walked with me across the street.

I tried to explain that there were a lot of cockroaches in the house right now, but I don’t think he really understood how many there were until he walked towards the kitchen. The first word out of his mouth was “impresionante”, a proper way of saying “holy shit!” in Spanish. He then opened the door to the bathroom and quickly closed it. He told me to wait outside for about an hour and that he would return to check up on the situation.

I sat outside in the patio area for the next hour calling my volunteer friends retelling my roach story for the next hour. Nelson then returned with his daughter to see how things were in the house. The floors throughout the house were littered with the dead carcasses of roaches. The spray had attacked their nervous systems and was causing them to run from their tunnels under the house into the open air. Nelson then helped me sweep up the thousands of roaches that littered the ground throughout the house and gave me advice as to how to clean up with bleach water afterwards. Nelson’s wife also came over and showed me where to put small pools of bleach water around doorways to keep them out of my room in the future. After a general sweep of the house Nelson and his family left me to continue cleaning up the remnants of the massacre.

Yes those are all dead cockroaches just in the bathroom. And that is one on the toilet seat.

I found dead roaches everywhere; under my bed, in the toilet, on kitchen chairs, etc. I bleached the floors throughout the house like nobodies business for the next few hours. I then fled the house to the internet cyber down the street to get some fresh air and to allow the fumes to mitigate. Throughout the remaining hours of the day a few roaches would randomly appear dead in the middle of the hallway or the kitchen. The stragglers I called them. That night when I got ready for bed I had no fears of seeing any live roaches in the house. That was one of my best nights of sleep in Paraguay thus far!

Feliz Navidad

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Christmas Eve: 95 degrees and humid
Christmas Day: 95 degrees and humid

With the weather boiling hot, I celebrated my first Christmas away from Washington in the traditional Paraguayan style. I spent my Christmas with the family of one of my community contacts that lives directly across the street from me. After lunch on Christmas Eve we began preparing all the food for the big traditional dinner that happens later that night. The traditional food is asado (bbq beef ribs), chorizo (pork sausage), sopa Paraguay (traditional corn bread), mandioca (the center of the Paraguayan diet, it is a root like a potato, all they do is skin it and then boil it), ensalada de poroto (red bean salad), ensalada de arroz (white rice and vegetable salad), and clerico (fruit and wine drink). I cut up most of the fruit for the clerico and helped with the salads. After a few hours of sitting around with the family taking about what traditions we have in the United States with Christmas, everyone returned to their houses to get ready for the evening (shower and put on your nicest outfit).

All the family gathered back around 8 or 8:30pm to go to the church for the evening mass and the baptism of Maria Paz, the 6 month old baby of my contact, at 9:30pm. Unfortunately it started to down pour a little before 9pm. We all huddled inside the house hoping the rain would stop for us to make the walk to church and for the rest of the evening so we could eat outside which is traditional. Luckily the rain did stop and we were able to walk to the church right on time. Not many people were at the church, since most of the city leaves for the holidays to visit family out in the country, but it was nice to go to church on Christmas Eve like my family always does in the states. Maria Paz was baptized during the service and she didn’t even cry. After church we all returned to the house and began setting up the table for dinner.

There were 20 of us that shared Christmas Eve dinner together. As we ate stories were told and lots of Guarani was spoken. I couldn’t understand most of it. But then when midnight came, the evening air filled with the sound of fireworks and everyone got up for the table and shared congratulations with each others. Saying “felicidades” and kissing each other on the cheeks. It had the feeling of New Years, but the congratulations were said in regards to the birth of Jesus, very Catholic country. We then returned to our food and drinks.

As everyone started ending their meals I was pressured into bringing over my guitar for some entertainment. Luckily I was able to pass off the guitar after singing only one song. Paraguayans love music. The rest of the night was spent singing and playing traditional Paraguayan songs between a few of the family members who know how to play guitar. I returned to my house around 2:30am and quickly went to sleep.

So what do Paraguayans do on Christmas day?
The answer: all whole bunch of nothing. Christmas day definitely the hardest day away from home I have had here in Paraguay. The same is true for the rest of my EE volunteer friends. With all the activity during the night before, and nothing to do on Christmas day, all of us got bitten by the homesick bug. Lots of phone calls were made between us volunteers to try to help pass the hours. I didn’t think that I would get as homesick as I did, but I definitely missed the comfort of home the whole day. Luckily I received a few packages and letters before I came down to Ayolas in Asuncion, and I passed a few hours responding. Also in a care package I got the new Wolverine movie that I saved to watch until Christmas morning. It definitely made my morning. Thanks Scott!

A Christmas Miracle
One absolutely amzing event that took place on Christmas day here was the birth of my future puppy! My volunteer neighbor Brenda in Guarambare had a small dog named Blanqi that got pregnant during training. We both fell in love with her and decided that we want to each adopt one of her babies after we got settled into site. Before we left she was getting really fat and they said she was going to give birth in the next few weeks. And it just so happened that she gave birth on Christmas day to 6 puppies. I hope to visit the family in January to pick out my dog and then take home the puppy at the end of February. I can´t wait! I always wanted a dog and now I will have one in Paraguay that I can teach tricks to in Spanish and Guarani.

So all in all I did have a great time spending my first Christmas in Paraguay; however it was challenging to spend the time away from all of you reading this blog right now. I hope that you all had an amazing Christmas with family and friends, and I would love to hear about it in a letter (wink, wink). I am keeping the same mailing address for right now, so just sit down this holiday season and tell me about all the delicious foods you are eating and what you have been doing these past three months. Miss you all!

Things I missed this Christmas-
Christmas carols
The 7pm Christmas Eve Service at my church
Baking Christmas cookies with my mom
Making gingerbread houses with Cara and Megan
Eggnog
The smell of a pine tree in the house
Christmas lights on houses

Peace Corps Volunteer

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After 11 weeks of training, 10 extra pounds from the asado eating, 9 times singing the same Taylor Swift song in english , 8 piglets being born, 7 family members sleeping in one room, 6 am wake up time everyday, 5 new mosquitoe bites every night, eating 4 scoops of ice cream on the extremely hot days, having a 3 year old boyfriend, 2 twin 14 year old host sisters, and 1 experience of vomiting outside of a moving bus, I officially recommend myself for Peace Corps service in Paraguay.


After 11 full weeks of training, 42 out of the original 42 Peace Corps Trainees from Guarambare, swore in as official Peace Corps Volunteers (PCV) on December 11th 2009. This day marks the official beginning of our two years of service. The night before we said our goodbyes to our host families, and early the next morning we were driven into Asuncion for the big day. First we went to the bank to get our official bank cards so we can take out our small amount of money we are given every month. And then we returned to the Peace Corps office were we spent the next few hours organizing all of our possessions for the weekend and for the long term storage room. After a few hours of organizing and moving bags, we reloaded into our vans for the drive to the US Embassy.
The ceremony was held at the Ambassadors’ house located on the property. We all anxiously awaited the arrival of the Ambassador to begin the ceremony. She arrived around 11am and the swear-in ceremony began right away.

Country Director Donald Clark gave the first speech and was followed by the Ambassador.

After her speech she then swore us in as Peace Corps Volunteers. We recited an oath that I can’t even really remember what it says, I think it was something about loyalty to the USA, hopefully it is not that important. Ikatu?

After we were officially sworn in, Carlos from the Crop Extension group gave a speech on behalf of all the volunteers. It was much livelier than the previous two and it was a great way to bring our ceremony to a close.

We then snacked on some Paraguayan finger food of empanadas and milanesa, which was followed by a delicious chocolate cake.

After some photo taking, our service as PCVs began. Our first task was walking back to the Peace Corps office in the afternoon heat. No longer trainees, no longer driven places in air conditioned vans. We all shed a little tear.

We then had the next four days off in Asuncion. We went to a goodbye party for the group that was swearing out that same day after two years of service, we walked around Asuncion finding all the best places to eat for the weekend, and just spent sometime relaxing with eachother hanging out on the roof top pool at the hotel.

Sounds like a nice break? It really was.

Le Extraño Guarambare

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Three months have past in my training community of Guarambare and now it is time to move on to my site for the next two years, but there are lots of things that I will miss about this city. And I would like to take the time for myself and for all of you reading this to know what my favorite things were about Guarambare and my training there.


Heladoria
Located in the center of town, the other trainees and I frequently visited this amazing ice cream shop. And by frequently, my two friends Brenda and Jessica and I would visit anywhere from 4 to 5 days a week. The most amazing part of the ice cream besides the delicious flavors like banana, dulce de leche, coco, chocolate, and granisado, is that it only costs $0.40 for two scoops. Also there is a very cute old man that owns the ice cream shop and we like to call him "Che tua de helado" or "My ice cream papa".





Sunsets
The large open sky of Paraguay provides a stunningly colorful sunset almost every night. No matter how hot or cold the day might have been, the purples and oranges that streak the sky create a breath taking view. While the sunset can be admired from any place in Guarambare, my favorite place to watch the sunset was in front of my house over the sugar cane fields.




Family
I will dearly miss my host family. I was blessed to have had a host family like them for my first three months in Paraguay. By the end of training I felt completely integrated into my family and grateful for their hospitality. Opening their home and their lives for me to experience. I attended weddings, wedding anniversaries, baptisms, first communions, deaths, birthdays and the birth of my host sister Maria Pabla. I have all the intentions of staying in contact with them throughout my service and visiting often, especially when friends and family visit me. By the time I leave, Maria Pabla will be walking and talking! Crazy!





Neighbors
Typychaty es mi barrio. The barrio or neighborhood of Guarambare that I lived in for the past three months is called Typychaty, meaning 'place of many brooms'. And while I never saw more than two or three different brooms during the past three months, I have to say that Typychaty is the best barrio in all of Guarambare and possibly Paraguay. I became good friends with Brenda's host family and will miss them dearly as well. All the laughs that Brenda and I shared with that family will always make me giggle when I am thinking back. I also made great friends with some neighbor girls my age and I can´t wait to go back and visit with them.

Trainees
Now this is when it gets sad. I will deeply miss my new friends. We have spent the last 11 weeks together developing relationships that will bond us together for years after our service. We all experienced the ups and downs of training, host families, and language errors. It feels like the end of summer camp. We all have to part our own ways, but nobody really wants to. We just want it to keep going for the next two years. However, I am excited for all of our adventures that we will encounter here in Paraguay. The best part of training is definitely making friends with other trainees so when we become volunteers we will have someone to complain to about our work, the heat, or Paraguayans, and we will know exactly how eachother is feeling.


I will miss you G-31 Environmental Education!

La Virgen de Caacupe

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The Mecca of Paraguay
The small town of Caacupe in Paraguay is the center of a yearly pilgrimage that brings thousands of people every year to view a statue of the Virgin Mary. Every year on December 8th, the Virgin of Caacupe is celebrated. Starting several days or up to a week before, over a million people start a pilgrimage to the town of Caacupe. Paraguay, like most of South America, is a predominately Roman Catholic country, around 99%. And the Paraguayan people adamantly believe in the legend of their sacred virgin.

The Legend of the Virgin
In the seventeenth century, a group of Mbaya Indians were pursuing a Guarani Indian near the mountains of Tobati. They wanted to kill him because the Guarani was a Christian convert and follower of the Franciscans, a group that caused a great deal of fear in the hearts of the Mbaya. Completely surrounded, the Guarani convert hid behind a huge tree. Trembling, he began to pray, and could feel the presence of the Immaculate Conception, the Virgin Mary. He vowed, if he survived, he would carve a statue in her image to show his gratitude for saving him. Miraculously, none of the Mbaya found the Guarani, and he lived out the rest of his life solely for the purpose of keeping his promise to the “queen of the skies”.

He later returned to the trunk of the tree where he was saved and patiently began drying the wood to begin his project of perfection. With all the fervor and skill he could muster, the grateful Guarani sculpted not just one, but two identical statues, one twice as big as the other. The larger was taken to a church in Tobati and the smaller was kept by the Guarani for his own devotion. The true identity of the creator of the statues remains unknown to this day.

The Paraguayan people then travel every to the city to view the Virgin Mary statue at the Basilica. The pilgrimage itself is supposed to be a time when people give over their burdens to the Virgin Mary to look after them throughout the night and the rest of the year.

Our Pilgrimage
Starting at 9pm on December 7th, I traveled with my two best friends, Brenda and Jessica, and 8 of Brenda's Paraguayan host family members to the Basilica in Caacupe. We had chatted with Brenda's host brothers and sisters for weeks about the pilgrimage and the three of us were really excited to experience the walk with Paraguayans. My family unfortunately were not interested in attending since they have walked in the past and my host siblings are too young.

We started our journey with a crowded bus ride to the town of Ypaacuri where we began the over 20 km walk. Hundreds of thousands of Paraguayans walked the same road as us that night. I was surprised that most of those that were walking were youth, in Paraguay youth mean those that range from 15 to 30 years old. Some carrying their children in their arms, but most were walking hand in hand with their significant others or were with a group of friends much like we were. We took a few breaks to grab some water or munch on a quick snack. Luckily Brenda's mom sent her some Trader Joes trail mix early that week in a care package and we got to munch on that the whole walk. The last break we took right before we entered the city was at an outdoor mission/homeless shelter space. As we rested our very tired feet by then, we drank delicious cocido and ate white bread rolls that were being passed out for free.

We walked until 4:30am in the morning when we finally reached the outskirts of the city. We then walked up a side road to find a place to rest our feet and heads for a few hours. Paraguayans lined the sidewalks and driveways of Caacupe for the night. We sprawled out some bed sheets on the sidewalk in front of a home and were able to get some shut eye for about an hour and a half. I was then awakened by the rising sun and the sound of the choir singing from the Basilica. It was the most refreshing alarm clock ever. We then spent a few hours in the morning walking around the town looking at the vendors, buying chipa (a traditional corn bread like food of Paraguay), and people watching the outrageous number of people who also made the pilgrimage like we had the night before. The last adventure was trying to catch a bus back to Guarambare. After two hours of walking around in the sun watching completely filled bus after completely filled bus pass by we had decided to just rest in a small park we found. Luckily once we had given up looking a parked empty bus down the street roared to life and we were able to cram us all on to a bus for the ride out of town.


I found the walk to be really fulfilling in many ways. While we walked along in the darkness I was able to spend some time thinking about my future here in Paraguay and after my service. Training has been so busy in the past 10 weeks that most of my time is concentrated on language training, technical skills and/or community integration with my host family, that I have not really had the time to think about my future seriously. Especially since I am still pretty nervous about moving to my future site since it is not exactly what I had been imagining for me, I was able to think about the positive possible work I could complete in and what I want to do after Peace Corps. While I still have two years to go, thoughts of grad school or possibly governmental work in D.C. have been floating through my head. So it was great to get the time to think. I was able to think about how things happen for a reason and what I can do to make the best out of those situations. And how the best choice I can make is how I choose to live my day to day life to make the best out of them. While hard with the language barrier still very present in my life, I am looking forward to getting to know my community more and what sort of work I can begin to keep myself busy and happy.

While walking some of my own burdens were shed that night as well.

Che Borat Paraguaype (I am the Borat of Paraguay)

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The movie Borat is a mock documentary about a man named Borat from Kazakhstan that travels to the United States for his local TV news station to interview Americans about their daily life activities. While Borat is not a real person, the conversations and situations filmed with other people are real. This past Wednesday, a huge rain storm hit Guarambare a few minutes before the end of training session for the day. I had just received a package from my mother that day and not wanting anything to get ruined, and because of course I forgot my rain coat since it was over 100 degrees during lunch, I decided to hide out at our training center with two good friends, Lora and Brenda. Lora happened to bring her computer to training that day to show us some of her pictures from home and she happens to also have the movie Borat on her computer. Lora, Brenda and I snuggled together around her computer and snacked on the amazing treats my mom had just sent me (cashews, crasins, sour patch kids, etc.). Surprisingly we found out that all of us in training are just like Borat in Paraguay. I am the foreigner that walks into post offices and asks in broken Spanish, “I send mail here?” After watching the movie we all agreed that the movie is a true example of how hard it is to understand and assimilate into a culture.
*While I find the movie Borat funny, I am forewarning all of those who have not seen it that it does contain a lot of inappropriate humor.

Sandia


Last weekend, four strikingly beautiful women of the Environmental Education training sector competed in the ultimate challenge, a watermelon (sandia) eating contest. I was one of those women. The contest was to see who could eat the most watermelon in one hour. The winner would get the glory and a bag of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups being sent from the States. My eating strategy was to cut the watermelon into large slices and eat the American way with my hands. Two of the ladies gave up a half an hour into the competition seeing that the others were eating much quicker. So I was left with one competitor, my best friend in Paraguay and neighbor Brenda.
She started off a little bit slower due to using the traditional Paraguayan technique of cutting the watermelon in half and eating it with a spoon. But as the minutes counted down, the watermelon juice started to stick to my face, arms and legs, and the space in my stomach started to shrink and so did my lead. Although she is little, Brenda can pack away the juice. With a supportive sponsor for the event, our good friend Jessica, Brenda took the lead in the last 5 minutes and I was unable to stretch my stomach. As time ended the difference between us was only a spoonful or two, but Brenda was the clear winner. While incredibly entertaining for the 15 Paraguayans and other trainees who were watching, the minutes after the competition were rough. I thought my stomach was going to give up on me again, and I would have yet another blog post to write about me throwing up in Paraguay. But it stayed down and the only disturbance the watermelon caused was visiting my latrine to pee at least 5 times that night. Lesson learned: hold the next watermelon eating contest earlier in the day.

Botanical Gardens

This week we also traveled to the Botanical Gardens in Asuncion to investigate a possible field trip to take students to. There was an environmental education center that we visited and were able to see the large library that they have of education materials. Within the garden there is a small zoo as well that we visited. I was a little apprehensive about viewing the living conditions of the animals. I was pleasantly surprised by the size of their cages, but I still feel sorry for them when it gets hot because I am sweating to death and I bet most of them are as well.


Pork and Milk

The day before I arrived in Paraguay one of my host family’s pigs gave birth to three piglets. The mother pig was one of the biggest pigs that I have ever seen in my life, weighing in at around 60 kilos, and thus that is why this past week my host family decided to kill the pig to sell for some extra money around this Christmas season. Wednesday morning Brenda and I woke up at 5am to enjoy a morning full of activity. We began the morning trying to milk one of my family’s cows. The old man that usually milks the cows every morning and afternoon was very patient, but we definitely struggled. I got a few small squirts, but not much.

The next activity was watching the very large pig being killed by the girlfriend of Brenda’s host brother. She is only 18 years old, but has grown up on a farm and is the only person in the neighborhood who knows how. While I wouldn’t say that I was excited to see the event, I thought that it was necessary to see how the process is completed in this country since I am now eating meat here on a pretty regular basis. I am not sharing this event to make it sound like Paraguay is some crazy country where they kill animals every morning, but I do think that it is important to share what happens in their daily lives. The actual process of killing and then processing the meat took the whole day. Finally at 9:30pm they had finished cleaning, cooking and butchering all the parts of the pig. The meat was taken to the butcher in Asuncion, the fat was cooked at my house to sell to the bakery in town, the organs were all boiled for consumption later and the skin was fried in pork rinds. It was an experience, however I don´t have any plans to see or hear it happen again in the future, but the pork rinds we ate that night were very delicious.