The first week of April this year, known as Holy Week or Semana Santa, was filled with the smell of chipa. All across the country Paraguayans followed a traditional schedule of celebrating Easter or Pascua.
Wednesday or Chipa Day!
I know you all are asking yourselves, what is this CHIPA thing she keeps mentioning? Well let me tell you about the very traditional bread product that Paraguayans can’t live without.
Chipa
1 kilo of mandioca starch
2 cups of corn flour
1 cup of pig fat
2 eggs
1 cup of milk
3 tablespoons of salt
¼ cup of anis
½ kilo of Paraguayan cheese (and yes there is a huge difference between queso Paraguayo and
all the other cheese in the world)
Once all the ingredients are mixed together, the dough is kneaded together into almost a play dough like texture. Once the dough is kneaded, you are allowed to make the chipa into any design. I enjoyed writing my name in my chipa. The dough is then placed on top of banana leaves and baked in either an outdoor fire oven called a fagon or in my experience an indoor gas oven. It is then customary to exchange chipa with friends and neighbors for the next few days to enjoy throughout the day.
Thursday or the Last Supper or Did Someone Say Pork Chops?
I was invited to spend Eater weekend with my friend Lili and her family at her parent’s house about an hour north of Ayolas. Lili’s parents own a small store or despensa that they run out of their house in San Patricio, Paraguay. We arrived Thursday morning to help prepare the large lunch we would be sharing as a family in a few hours. The focus of the meal across Paraguay on Thursday is chancho or pork. My favorite! (It really is)
After a large lunch, we spent the rest of the day visiting her family members that live on the block. This means I spent most of the day explaining why I am here in Paraguay, how Lili and I are friends, and if I am happy here. We also went to church service that evening at the small Catholic church located in the towns small plaza.
Friday or Good Friday or the Day of Rest
Across the country families gathered together on Friday to share the day with each other. We headed out to Lili’s Grandmas house located about a 15 minute drive into the countryside outside of San Patricio. We gathered alongside a dozen other aunts, uncles, and cousins to spend the day relaxing in the shade of a large mango tree with drinking endless amounts of terere, beer, and eating leftovers from Thursday. The countryside was absolutely beautiful and the warm weather added to its splendor. I spent most of the day staring out into the countryside while the family gossiped in Guarani about family members, politics, and a hundred other things. I was usually brought back into reality when they would ask me random question about the United States.
Saturday or Fiesta Time!
While time was still spent with family and close friends, the fiesta spirit also hit Paraguay. Lots of volleyball and futbol games were played, while even more beers were drunk. Lili and I headed back to Ayolas in the early afternoon and spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening fishing along the Rio Parana. I caught the first fish! It was the size of a deck of cards, but I was proud of my work.
Sunday or Pascua or the day you are permitted to run around town hitting people
Sunday or Easter/Pascua is not celebrated the same as it is in the states. There was no Easter bunny hiding eggs for kids to find. And there were no Easter baskets full of candy and toys. I have no idea where these traditions came from that I have participated in for the past 23 years, and boy did I have a hard time trying to explain them to Paraguayans.
Instead on Sunday Paraguayans have the tradition of hitting each other on the backs, sometimes butts depending on the level of friendship, while shouting FELIZ PASCUA!
I found the Paraguayan traditions of Semana Santa to be very comforting. While many say that Paraguay’s homogeneity is one of the reasons they are so far back in terms of forward thinking and development, I wouldn’t say that all things homogeneous are bad. I mean everyone loves massive amounts of food, beer, and the opportunity to hit people without feeling bad!!
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